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The Science of Beard Growth

Growing a beard is wild, right? There’s so much happening below the surface that most people don’t even think about. It’s a mix of hormones, genetics, age, and how well you take care of what you’ve got. Let’s break it down in a way that actually makes sense.

Testosterone and DHT

When it comes to beard growth, so much of what’s happening is related to testosterone and dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Testosterone is the big boss hormone that gets things started, but DHT is the one that makes your beard thick, dark, and manly-man coarse. Here’s how it works: your body converts testosterone into DHT using an enzyme called 5-alpha-reductase. DHT locks onto receptors in your hair follicles and tells them, “Let’s grow some serious beard hair, man.” and from there, the follicle gets to work. Inside the follicle, specialized cells called keratinocytes start producing keratin, the tough protein that makes up the structure of your hair. Alongside this, melanocytes are busy producing melanin, which gives your hair its color. The hair begins to grow out from the dermal papilla, a little bulb-like structure at the base of the follicle. This is where all the magic happens. The dermal papilla supplies blood and nutrients to the rapidly dividing cells, feeding the growth process. As new cells form, they push the older cells upward through the follicle. These older keratin cells harden and die, and badabing, badabip, you’ve got hair.

The hair shaft itself is made up of three layers:

  • The medulla (the core): Found mainly in thicker hairs (almost always in beard hair), it provides structural support.
  • The cortex: This is the nerve center of each hair, containing keratin matrixes and melanin. The cortex determines the hair’s strength, elasticity, and color.
  • The cuticle: The outermost layer, made of overlapping cells that protect the cortex and give the hair its shine.

As the hair grows, the cuticle layers lock in place like shingles on a roof, protecting the inner layers from damage. When your beard is well-nourished, the cortex stays strong and flexible, while the cuticle remains smooth and intact, allowing light to reflect and giving your beard that healthy, lustrous look. However, without proper care, environmental factors chip away at the cuticle, leaving the cortex vulnerable to breakage and dryness.

On a cellular level, DHT also increases the size of the sebaceous glands attached to your hair follicles. These glands produce sebum, your skin’s natural oil, which is essential for keeping your beard hydrated and protected. A balance of DHT, keratin production, and sebum ensures your beard grows thick, healthy, and resilient to environmental stressors. Because we shave for most of our lives, and use all kinds of products that disrupt our body’s natural balance, these sebaceous glands very rarely product the right amount of sebum that we need. This often results in dry, flaky, itchy skin, or oily, acne-prone skin.

Age and Beard Growth

Look, I get it… It’s frustrating when you’re younger and your beard isn’t filling in like you want. Most guys don’t hit their full beard potential until their mid-20s to early 30s. I was 31! Why? Because testosterone levels gradually ramp up during puberty and peak in your late teens to early 20s. That doesn’t mean you’re not a man when you’re 20 or 25. Lol. For a lot of us, beard growth just keeps improving well into our late 20s as hormone levels stabilize. So if you’re still waiting for things to come together, just give it time.

Your age also affects how quickly your beard grows and its overall quality. As you age, the cycles of hair growth – anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest) – lengthen and become more consistent. That’s why many dudes see a noticeable improvement in density and coverage in their late 20s compared to their teenage years. On the other side of that coin, if you’re not seeing much progress by your mid-30s, it’s worth looking at factors like stress, nutrition, and overall health, which can directly impact hormone production and follicle activity. Your beard is an evolving beast. Just be patient and give it the best care you can.

Genetics

Your beard’s growth pattern is pretty much pre-written in your DNA. Here’s what your genes decide:

  • How many active follicles you have on your face.
  • Hormonal sensitivity to DHT, which influences thickness and growth rate.
  • The color and texture of your beard hair.

While genetics don’t specifically determine the shape and direction of your beard growth, they do influence follicle density and sensitivity to hormones like DHT. Things like patchiness and slow growth are often not related to genetics, and most often come down to environmental factors.

Ethnicity and heritage play significant roles here as well. For example, men of Mediterranean descent often grow thick, dense beards due to higher follicle density and robust sensitivity to DHT. Men of Northern European descent may have lighter-colored and finer beards, reflecting adaptations to colder climates where thicker hair was more beneficial on the scalp than the face. Meanwhile, East Asian men may have finer or sparser growth patterns, influenced by different follicle structures and hormonal responses. Indigenous populations in the Americas often display minimal facial hair growth due to genetic factors that evolved alongside their environmental and cultural adaptations. These variations aren’t about better or worse, and they’re not set in stone. They’re just unique characteristics tied to evolutionary needs and adaptations that are written in the genetic code of all people. No matter where you fall on that spectrum, embracing and caring for your natural growth pattern is what truly defines a great beard. That doesn’t mean one is better than the other, it’s just how your genetic dice rolled. Work with what you’ve got, and you’ll find your style.

Your genetic predisposition also affects how sensitive your follicles are to DHT. Some men’s follicles respond strongly to even low levels of DHT, resulting in thick, rapid growth. Others might have less responsive follicles, or be more prone to inflammation and decreased follicular activity. On top of that, genes influence the thickness and shape of your individual hairs. Coarser, curly hair can make a beard look fuller even if the follicle density is lower, while finer, straighter hair might take longer to build volume. Genetics is your starting point, but the right care can help maximize what you’ve got.

Shaving Won’t Make Your Beard Thicker

Let’s kill this myth once and for all. Shaving doesn’t make your beard grow back thicker or faster. When you shave, you’re cutting the hair at the surface, so the blunt ends feel coarser as they grow out. But it doesn’t change what’s happening in the follicle. Your growth rate, thickness, and pattern are all about hormones and genetics, not how often you break out the razor.

This myth likely sticks around because the blunt tip of a shaved hair feels stiffer compared to a natural tapered tip. Once the hair grows out a bit, that coarse feeling disappears. Also, shaving doesn’t stimulate follicle activity or increase blood flow to the area. Those are tasks better left to proper skincare and nourishment. If you want to improve your beard growth, focus on hydration, reducing inflammation, and giving your follicles the nutrients they need to thrive.

Melanin and Gray/White Beards

Here’s something a lot of people don’t know: melanin, the pigment that gives your hair its color, also adds structural strength to the hair. When your follicles stop producing melanin, your beard turns gray or white. But there’s more to it than just the color change. The lack of melanin creates voids in the keratin structure, which is the protein that gives hair its strength. That’s why gray and white hairs tend to be brittle, wiry, and harder to manage.

Gray hair also loses some of its natural oils, making it more prone to dryness and frizz. Without melanin, the hair reflects light differently, which is why gray beards can look dull. To counteract this, focus on deep hydration and conditioning. Beard oils rich in omega fatty acids, like hemp seed or avocado oil, are perfect for filling in those keratin gaps and restoring elasticity. You def don’t have to accept a brittle beard just because it’s grey!

Inflammation: The Beard Killer

Inflammation is always one of the biggest reasons beards stall out or come in patchy. Your cheeks and chin take a beating from UV rays, wind, pollutants, and even physical contact to things such as your pillowcase or palms. All that irritation can slow down or completely shut off follicles. This is where skincare comes in clutch. Reducing inflammation creates the perfect environment for your beard to thrive.

On a deeper level, inflammation leads to the release of cytokines, which are signaling molecules that tell your immune system to respond. While this is useful for fighting off infections, chronic inflammation can disrupt the hair growth cycle and even damage the dermal papilla. By using anti-inflammatories and natural antioxidants in your skincare routine, you can calm the skin and keep your follicles active. Proper hydration and gentle exfoliation can also help reduce buildup and further protect your beard from environmental stress.

The Bottom Line

Growing a beard is a mix of science, patience, and learning how it all works. Hormones, genetics, and age set the stage, but how you care for your beard is also crucial. Hydration, nourishment, and addressing inflammation can turn a struggling beard into a thriving one. Remember, no two beards are the same. Embrace yours.

A General Guide To The Softest, Healthiest Beard Ever

We see a whole lot people make the decision to jump into growing their first beard. Welcome to it! Here’s a bit of entry level advice!

With a little bit of care, we can help you grow the best beard you’re capable of. Getting your beard to be soft, healthy, and the envy of all your friends (lol) is all about consistent care, the right products, and understanding what your hair and skin actually need.

Here’s the most simple and straightforward approach:

-Hydration is King! A dry beard feels rough and brittle. Use a high-quality beard oil daily to hydrate both the hair and the skin underneath. Look for oils with bioavailable fatty acids and medium-chain triglycerides that absorb easily and nourish deeply. Oils like jojoba DO NOT ABSORB. Avoid. Apply products to a slightly damp beard!

-Deep Condition for Strength! Beard butter is your best friend for deep conditioning. It’s made with oils and butters like shea butter, which penetrate deeply to strengthen and soften hair. Use it 2–3 times a week or after a beard wash to deeply moisturize.

-Wash as little as possible, but as often as necessary! We recommend washing your beard 2–3 times a week with a dedicated, pH balanced beard wash. These are formulated to cleanse without stripping your natural oils, unlike regular shampoos. There is some debate to this, but we believe that over-washing keeps you dependent on supplemented conditioning and keeps your body’s natural ability to create oils out of whack. Our philosophy is always that you should be helping your body do what it is meant to do naturally.

-Brush and Comb Daily! Use a quality beard comb or brush to detangle and train your beard. Brushing distributes oils evenly, smooths out unruly hairs, and promotes blood flow to the follicles. A wood or metal comb is best for avoiding static and breakage. Plastic combs often have snags that you can’t see with the naked eye. These tear your hair and contribute to split ends and breakage.

-Exfoliate the Skin Underneath! Healthy skin = a healthy beard. Exfoliate your face weekly with a gentle scrub to remove dead skin cells and allow new growth!

-Eat for Your Beard! Your diet plays a huge role in beard growth. Protein, healthy fats, and vitamins like biotin and zinc are essential for strong, healthy hair. Stay hydrated and eat a balanced diet to support optimal growth. We don’t recommend oral supplements marketed to grow beards. Just eat well and you’ll be fine!

-Protect Against Damage! Avoid overexposure to harsh elements like extreme sun, wind, or cold, which can dry out your beard. If you’re in these conditions, add a layer of balm or butter for extra protection.

-Avoid Cheap Products! Many mainstream products are loaded with cheaply produced ingredients, silicones, and synthetic fragrances that coat your hair without nourishing it, leaving it dry and prone to breakage. Opt for products with clean, natural ingredients and scientific formulation. It’s so hard to know what’s what, but it’s very helpful when you can reach out directly to the crafter and when you can verify the science that they lean on with peer-reviewed studies. Call it out when you see misinformation being spread as the truth. This hurts everybody.

-Patience and Consistency! A soft, healthy beard doesn’t happen overnight. Growing a beard is about patience. That’s the baseline. Stick to a routine, and you’ll start seeing and feeling results in a matter of weeks.

Just remember that your beard is like a plant. Give it hydration, nutrients, and proper care, and it’ll thrive!

Welcome to the beard life, brother! We’re your own personal beard gurus! Always feel free to email for advice!

Why Your Beard Itches and How To Stop It.

The dreaded beard itch.

Beard itch is easily one of the most common complaints, whether you’re just starting out or you’ve had a beard for years. It makes a ton of people give up before they even get in far enough to see their own potential. But the good news is that it’s an easy fix once you know what’s causing it.

Beard itch comes down to two main things: dry skin and inflammation. When you grow a beard, your skin suddenly has to produce enough sebum (your body’s natural oil) to moisturize both your skin and the hair. If your skin can’t keep up, it dries out. That dryness leads to flakes, irritation, inflammation, and finally, itchiness. Add to that the fact that new beard hairs feel like little needles poking your skin, and yeah, it’s no wonder your face feels like it’s on fire.

But fixing it is super simple. Here’s what works every single time:

Hydrate the skin. Start by drinking more water. It sounds basic, but it helps. A lot.

Wash your dirty beard, but not too much. Wash your beard a few times a week MAXIMUM with a gentle soap. Castile soap is a great start, and easy to find. Beard washes vary greatly, but a good castile soap will always be the jumping off point. Over-washing strips natural oils and makes the problem worse. The best recommendation is to wash your beard twice a week. Rinse it with hot water and brush it to keep it clean in between. Feel free to “strip wash” it every few weeks, but it’s not necessary IMO. (You just let the soap sit a little longer so it breaks down all the oils and pulls them out when it’s rinsed.) Feel free to ask about that, but I really don’t think it’s crucial.

Get yourself a good beard oil and use it daily. A quality beard oil replenishes the moisture your skin is struggling to produce, calms irritation, eliminates inflammation, and cuts out the itch entirely. Honestly, skipping beard oil is like skipping sunscreen at the beach. You can do it, but you’re gonna regret it. It’s definitely not some magical cure-all, but it’s a straightforward, science-backed solution to a whole lot of very solvable beard problems. A few drops a day makes the entire journey better and easier. We never see a guy with a good beard say he doesn’t like beard oil, but we see plenty of the opposite. Don’t be that guy. 😉

So, to sum it up: hydrate, wash smart, and use a quality beard oil. It’s really that easy. Your face will thank you, and your beard will look and feel a whole lot better.

Got questions? Feel free to email and ask them. We’ve been doing this for a long time, so we’ve heard every beard problem story you can imagine. We’re here to help you grow the hell out of a good one.

So, You’ve Decided to Grow a Beard. 👍

Welcome to the ranks of millions of dudes worldwide who decided to stop shaving. We’re stoked to have you in the community! Whether it’s your first beard or just the first beard you’ve decided to take care of, we’re glad you found your way to a community that can offer advice, tips, and support.

One of the most common questions we see from brand new beard-growers is, “Here’s my 2-3 week beard, do you think it’ll grow in full?” To which, we’ll always answer: Growing a beard is a marathon, not a sprint. Don’t shave. Be patient.

We’re here to offer that same advice to you, along with a breakdown of what you can expect as you grow your beard, along with some advice to make the process smoother. Read on!

Day 1 – 1 Month: Setting the Stage

From the moment you stop shaving, you’re in it, and it can be a bit chaotic. Your face has been trained from years of shaving, exposure to harsh soaps and skin treatments, and subjected to all kinds of environmental inflammation. Your sebaceous oil glands are hardly functioning, taught to lie dormant, and your skin is dry and itchy. This is why the first few weeks, and even the first few months, can be rough.

What to Expect:

  • Growth will be sporadic. You’ll likely notice more hair under your chin and along the jawline, where skin is less exposed to irritation.
  • “Patchy” growth, as some follicles are dormant or inflamed, so growth is uneven.
  • Itchiness hits hard. This happens because your skin is adjusting to the new growth and isn’t producing enough oil to keep up.

How to Manage It:

  • Wash your face daily and exfoliate weekly to keep pores open, skin clear, and prevent ingrown hairs.
  • Use a good beard oil to reduce inflammation, feed the follicles, and ease the itch.
  • Drink plenty of water and eat a balanced diet with protein, B12, biotin, and sulfur-rich foods to support healthy growth.

1 – 3 Months: The “Is This Worth It?” Phase

This is when patience really comes into play. Growth is still uneven for most, and some areas might feel like they’ll never fill in. Many give up here, but this is the time to lean in and trust the process. Beard growth is wildly personal to your genetics, so don’t compare yourself to others at this stage.

What to Expect:

  • The itchiness should start to subside as your skin adjusts.
  • Ingrown hairs can be an extra concern, especially if you’ve been shaving for years.
  • The awkward phase begins. Hairs may grow in all directions, looking sloppy and unkempt.

How to Manage It:

  • Stick to your routine: beard oil daily, exfoliate weekly, and wash as needed (not too often—overwashing can dry out your skin).
  • Use a light balm to train hairs and keep them from sticking out. This also helps guide future growth in the direction you want.
  • Avoid trimming, especially your neckline, unless absolutely necessary. You’re building a foundation, and trimming now can set you back later.

3 – 6 Months: Awkward but Promising

By now, you’ve likely hit your stride. This is when growth really starts to show, but your beard may still feel unruly.

What to Expect:

  • Your beard will start to show density and length, but it may still feel uneven.
  • You’ll start seeing the potential of your beard, but the awkward phase isn’t over yet.

How to Manage It:

  • Keep using beard oil daily. It’s essential for healthy growth and keeping the hair soft and manageable.
  • Incorporate more balm if needed to control the direction of growth and keep things looking tidy.
  • If you’re struggling with dryness or frizz, consider a butter or a heavier conditioning product.

6 – 12 Months: The End of the Awkward Phase

Congratulations, you’ve made it through the toughest part. By now, your beard should look much fuller, and you’re starting to see the real potential of your growth. You may decide this is the length you want to keep, or you may decide to let it rip into the stuff of legends. It’s all up to you.

What to Expect:

  • Length and density are the name of the game. Your beard will start to settle into its natural pattern.
  • The itch is long gone, and maintenance becomes easier with the health provided by good care.
  • You’ll likely feel more confident about the look, even if it’s not perfect yet.

How to Manage It:

  • This is a great time for your first professional trim. A skilled barber can shape your beard without sacrificing length or density.
  • Keep training your beard with oil and balm. Regular maintenance helps prevent breakage and keeps it healthy, soft, and clean.
  • Focus on your end goal. Whether you want a “yeard” (year-long beard) or a business beard, consistency is key.

After 12 Months: The Next Steps

You’ve reached your first “yeard.” Now it’s all about what you want to do next. Some guys aim for terminal length, while others prefer to maintain a neat, professional style. From here, you’re ready to help the next generation of growers start their journey. Pat yourself on the back. In modern times, only around 18% of all men have ever grown and maintained a beard for a full year. Well done.

A few takeaways and tip:

Remember that growing a beard is an exercise in patience. Give it time, trust the process, and stick to a good routine.

Beard health is about more than just hair. It’s also about the skin underneath. Take care of it, and your beard will thrive.

Let your beard grow naturally before making big decisions. You can always trim or shape later, but you can’t undo over-trimming. This is the death of so many beards. So many.

Don’t shave. That’s the most important part.

Welcome to the grow, brother. You’re in good company!

Sensitive Skin RED FLAGS in Beardcare

Yo, brothers! It’s so important to remember that if you’re trying to set the stage for the fastest, fullest, healthiest growth, the first step is reducing inflammation. For folks with sensitive skin, that can be tougher than it is for others, so I wanted to write this short guide for you.  Let’s dive in.

First off, sensitive skin can be a challenge, but it’s super manageable once you know what to look for. The beard care market is full of products that claim to work miracles, but a lot of them are downright awful for sensitive skin. Here’s what you need to know to find products that actually help rather than hurt. Here’s a few red flags to watch for!

Understand the oils

Not all oils are created equal, especially for sensitive skin. The big thing to look for is the oil’s comedogenic rating. This tells you how likely an oil is to clog your pores. For sensitive skin, stick with oils that have a rating of 2 or lower. Anything below 1 is even better and is classified as “non-comedogenic”. That’s the gold standard. Clogging your pores can lead to irritation, inflammation, and even breakouts, which is the exact opposite of what you want when trying to grow a healthy beard. You can look these up with a quick Google search, but here’s some common ones.

Hemp Seed Oil – 0,2
Argan Oil – 0.7
Sweet Almond Oil – 1.7
Jojoba Oil – 2.6
Grapeseed Oil – 0.8
Avocado Oil – 1.9
Castor Oil – 1.1
Coconut Oil (Unrefined) – 4.5
Coconut Oil (Fractionated) – 0.8
Olive Oil – 2.6
Apricot Kernel Oil – 1.7
Hazelnut Oil – 0.7
Sunflower Oil – 0.3
Macadamia Nut Oil – 2.1
Pumpkin Seed Oil – 2.4
Rice Bran Oil – 2.1
Rosehip Seed Oil – 1.5
Baobab Oil – 1.6
Meadowfoam Seed Oil – 1.4
Shea Butter (Unrefined) – 0.4
Shea Butter Oil – 1.4
Lanolin Oil – 4.2
Palm Kernel Oil – 4.1
Wheat Germ Oil – 5
Emu Oil – 3.3
Ostrich Oil – 3.6
Duck Oil – 4.2
Beef Tallow – 5

You can take a quick average of a blend to get a loose idea, but that’s the best you can do without knowing the exact ratios a company uses of each oil. Always ask. Any company worth a damn will know the comedogenic rating of their formula off-hand. Ours is ~0.6. Fully non-comedogenic.

Avoid artificial fragrances

Artificial fragrances are one of the worst offenders for sensitive skin. These are often alcohol-based or packed with synthetic chemicals that can trigger reactions. Common culprits like linalool and limonene are found in tons of mass-market products. You want to see “No Artificial Fragrances” on the label. Essential oils are usually a better choice, but even those need to be used carefully. Regulation in the essential oil world is basically nonexistent, and there’s a ton of misinformation out there. For example, most don’t know that there are only 176 recognized essential oils, and of those, only about 102 are commonly used in scenting. So if someone’s telling you they’ve got “leather”, “tobacco”, or “mahogany” essential oil, that’s nonsense. Those aren’t essential oils. They might be fragrance oils derived from natural absolutes (which is a whole thing). but they are more likely artificial and made with synthetic chemicals. Either way, avoid them unless you know exactly how they’re made. Even with real essential oils, concentration matters. Sensitive skin can’t handle high doses. The safe level for essential oils in a beard product is about 1.75% or less. Anything more can lead to major reactions or even photosensitivity.

Choose the right cleanser

Sensitive skin thrives in a balanced ecosystem. That means finding a pH-balanced beard wash and using it as necessary. Always follow up with a good, non-comedogenic oil to calm the skin and keep inflammation under control. Harsh soaps or products with sulfates will strip your beard and the skin beneath it of natural oils, leaving everything dry and irritated. That’s a fast track to more inflammation and slower growth, especially for dudes with sensitive skin. Stick to gentle cleansers designed specifically for beards.

Sensitive skin might take a little more effort, but always worth it to grow a great beard. Employ these tools and let that beard rip, y’all.

Beard Problem? You Need Beard Oil.

Every new beard deals with the same set of challenges: itching, patchy growth, slow progress, mustaches growing over lips, beards that won’t lay right, or hair that’s too curly and hard to manage. The list goes on, and almost every one of these problems boils down to the same root issue: your skin and follicles aren’t getting what they need to function at their best.

The answer to almost every question is simply: beard oil. You need it. Start using beard oil the day you decide you’re growing out your beard. This is going to set the stage for the fastest, fullest, healthiest growth you’re biologically capable of growing. Now, I know this is a company telling you that you need what they sell, but beard oil is simply a tool, and a good tool is invaluable. A good beard oil is an essential for all beards, most often the ones who think they don’t need it the most! I know all about the dudes who claim that it’s all just a hipster fad, but the concept of oiling your beard for health dates back to atleast 8000BC, in ancient Mesopotamia. In the 10k+ years since, science has dialed this in *just* a little a bit. The right blend, formulated with science, does so much more than just make your beard shiny. It gets to work on a deeper level revitalizing dormant follicles and enhancing pigment. It eliminates itch, keeps your beard soft and manageable, and helps train the hair to grow the way you want it to. Even issues like stubborn curls or uneven growth benefit, because the oil nourishes the hair and skin at the molecular level and reduces inflammation. Beard oil is the answer to almost every beard problem.

Here’s why: Hair and skin are made up of keratin, which relies on nutrients like fatty acids to maintain strength, flexibility, and health. A good beard oil contains bioavailable fatty acids, meaning they’re structured in a way your skin and hair can absorb and actually use. These fatty acids ride in on medium chain triglycerides and do several key things, some of which are:

Inflammation reduction: Inflammation is one of the leading causes of slow growth and patchiness. When follicles are inflamed, they can’t work properly. Oils with anti-inflammatory properties soothe the skin, keeping follicles active and functional.

Follicle activation: Dormant follicles often just need a little help to kick back into gear. Oils that promote circulation and reduce inflammation can help bring these follicles back online, filling in patchy areas over time.

Training and shaping: Soft, nourished hair is more pliable. When you use oil regularly, it conditions the beard, making it easier to train stubborn curls or unruly areas to lay the way you want them to.

Enhanced pigment: Certain oils reinforce melanin structures, enhancing the natural color of your beard, giving it a richer, healthier appearance over time.

Email us with your beard problems and we’ll show you the science that says beard oil can fix it! IF it can fix it! Chances are that a good beard oil is the solution you’re looking for. You can add on other products as you see fit, but it always starts simple.

Debunking Beard Care Bullsh*t

The beard care industry is an area full of misinformation and marketing nonsense. A lot of this confusion comes from people making up nonsense to cover for subpar product, or from amateurs who learn from marketing materials, not peer-reviewed scientific journals. If a company wants to sell argan oil, for example, they are going to tell you that argan oil is the best thing ever. That is not science. It’s marketing. Amateur beard oil crafters learn from these materials and pass that info on to others as fact. Beard growers trust crafters, and before you know it, thousands of beard growers think subpar ingredients are the gold standard, scents should last all day, and gimmicks are essential. Even worse, folks get used to underperforming products and come to believe that ALL beard care is gimmick and nonsense.

It’s time to debunk some bullsh*t and set the record straight.

“What works for your beard.”

You’ve probably heard this one before: “Everybody’s beard is different.” It sounds good, but it’s often used to justify mediocre products. Beard hair is textured hair, and products that work well on textured hair will work universally on beards. Hair science shows that the right combination of fatty acids and triglycerides is universally beneficial, regardless of individual beard variations. Instead of using this phrase as an excuse for why something isn’t delivering, focus on scientifically-backed formulations designed to nourish and support healthy growth.

“Beard oil is just for the hair.”

This is a big misconception. Beard oil is for both the hair and the skin. Bioavailable fatty acids in good beard oils penetrate the hair shaft, reaching the cortex where they soften, strengthen, and hydrate. At the same time, they nourish the skin underneath, reducing inflammation and preventing itch and flakes. If your beard oil isn’t doing this, it’s not good enough. Lipidology studies show that the fatty acid profile of oils determines their ability to penetrate and work effectively, which is why cheap oils fail to deliver long-term results.

“Jojoba and argan oil are the best ingredients for beard care.”

Not even close. Jojoba is a wax ester, which means it sits on the surface of your hair and skin, acting more like a sealant than a hydrator. Argan oil partially penetrates but stops in the medulla, never reaching the cortex where it can do real work. Neutrogena funded a study in 1998 that found jojoba oil provided zero penetration to the hair cortex, leading many major brands to drop it. These oils give superficial softness and shine but don’t provide long-term benefits. For real nourishment, look for oils like hemp seed or avocado that penetrate deeply and support hair health from the inside out.

“Beard growth vitamins are essential.”

Most beard growth vitamins are glorified multivitamins with fancy marketing. Unless you’re deficient in key nutrients like biotin or zinc, they won’t magically make your beard grow faster or thicker. Nutritional science indicates that the body has an absorption threshold for vitamins, and any excess is simply excreted in your urine. Instead of literally pissing away your money, just eat a balanced diet, drink water, and take care of your skin and hair with a good routine. If you’re deficient, address that deficiency. But don’t expect miracles from over-the-counter pills.

“Beard balms clog pores and cause acne.”

This one depends on the ingredients. Cheap balms with comedogenic oils like coconut can clog pores, but well-formulated balms using non-comedogenic oils won’t. A good balm will condition both your skin and hair without causing irritation or buildup. Research into comedogenicity highlights that not all oils are created equal. Choose balms with oils like hemp seed or grapeseed that penetrate without clogging. If you’re breaking out, it’s likely due to poor hygiene or overuse, not the product itself.

“Grey hairs are dead and can’t be repaired.”

Grey hairs lose melanin, which does affect their structure, making them more brittle and wiry. However, they are far from dead. The loss of melanin leads to structural voids in the keratin bonds, but bioavailable fatty acids can penetrate, strengthen those bonds, and smooth the hair cuticle. This transforms wiry, unmanageable grey hairs into soft, smooth strands. Studies have shown that essential fatty acids can fill these structural gaps, restoring elasticity and manageability. A healthy grey beard is a thing of beauty. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.

“Split ends mean your beard isn’t healthy.”

Split ends are a normal part of having a beard, especially if it’s long. They occur when the cuticle gets damaged, exposing the inner layers of the hair. Regular trims, proper hydration, and using high-quality oils and balms can help minimize them, but they’re not a sign of an unhealthy beard. Damage can be mitigated with consistent care. Use fatty-acid-rich products to nourish and protect your hair’s outer layer to prevent splits from traveling up the shaft. It is ok to get a healthy trim from time to time to cut away split ends.

“If your beard itches, it just means it’s growing.”

Nope, not true at all. Itching happens because your skin is inflamed or dehydrated. When hair grows, it pulls moisture from your skin, leaving it dry. Add in dirt, sweat, and poor grooming habits, and you’ve got itching. Beard oil can fix this. Good oils hydrate the skin, reduce inflammation, and create a healthy environment for growth. Dehydrated skin triggers an inflammatory response, which amplifies the discomfort. Regular use of a high-quality beard oil will eliminate that irritation and keep your skin happy.

“You need to derma roll or use minoxidil to grow a thicker beard.”

Derma rollers come with an insane infection risk, and minoxidil is only a temporary fix at best. Neither of these options actually makes your follicles healthier. Follicles are affected by genetic and hormonal factors, not mechanical damage or temporary vasodilation. The follicles you have are the follicles you’ve got. Genetics determine their density. You can support growth by reducing inflammation, hydrating, and nourishing your skin and hair with good products. Healthy follicles depend on maintaining balanced skin care, not gimmicks that can backfire.

“Beards grow slower in the winter.”

Beards don’t grow slower in cold weather. The truth is, harsh winter conditions can make them feel drier, brittle, and harder to maintain. This gives the illusion that growth has slowed down. Scientific studies on hair growth cycles confirm that external temperature has little to no impact on follicular activity. Instead, focus on keeping your beard hydrated and protected to counteract environmental stressors that might make it seem like your growth has stalled.

The Bottom Line

Beard care doesn’t have to be complicated, but it does require separating fact from fiction. Stick with high-quality products, focus on good grooming habits, and ignore the marketing noise. When we know better, we do better. As beard care crafters, we have an obligation to work to earn your trust by putting our money where our mouth is. We prove our work when you feel the night and day difference in your own beard. Beard care should never rely on gimmicks. Long-term benefits and true beard health always win over superficial quick fixes.

Your beard deserves the best, and so do you.

 

Understanding the Shelf-Life of Beard Grooming Products

The fact is, all natural beard products will go rancid within 12 months or so. I know, it’s a lot to take in. People come for my throat about this topic all the time, because they were told it was fine to buy 100 bottles and display them on a shelf in the bathroom. Unfortunately, this is not true, and I’m often the one who has to break it to them that they flushed $2k down the toilet. This is a very common and misleading approach that too many beard care crafters use. I believe that as producers of quality beard care, myself and my peers in the industry owe it to our consumers to help confront this exploitive sales approach and also to ensure that everybody has quality, fresh product that works. Here’s the science that supports this statement. Let’s get into it.

Almost all beard products are made with cold-pressed vegetable oils. Some use tallow or less common “bird oils,” but the vast majority rely on plant-based oils. Each of these oils has a definitive shelf life. Shelf life refers to how long a product remains effective and safe to use before it begins to degrade. Unfortunately, some crafters claim that beard oils and balms are “shelf-stable,” meaning they supposedly last indefinitely. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Just like the olive oil in your kitchen, the oils in your beard products will oxidize over time, becoming rancid.

In herbalism, we learn often how vital fresh, high-quality oils can be for maintaining healthy hair and skin. In trichology, we study lipidology to understand the roles fatty acids and triglycerides play in hair health. Fresh, high-quality oils can provide so much benefit to both the hair and skin. Rancid oils, on the other hand, contain free radicals: unstable molecules that damage hair and skin at a cellular level. They can cause brittle hair, breakage, and even encourage follicles to go dormant. This is why using expired products can do more harm than good.

Here’s a look at the shelf life of some of the most common oils found in beard products. The variance in range is based on how it’s stored and whether or not it’s been opened.
The low number is “opened, stored properly” and the high number is “unopened, stored properly”:

Hemp Seed Oil: 6-9 months

Jojoba Oil: 12 months

Argan Oil: 6-12 months

Avocado Oil: 12 months

Sweet Almond Oil: 6-12 months

Tallow: 6-12 months

Emu oil: 6-12 months

Oils degrade due to oxidation, a process that occurs when they’re exposed to light, air, and heat. Even before oils make it into your bottle of beard oil, they’ve been exposed to light and air during production, transportation, and bottling. The lack of press dates from many producers means that a crafter could already be starting with oils that are partially rancid. This is particulaly true with companies who order their ingredients from 3rd party seller like Amazon, or who buy ingredients from big box stores. Anything short of “straight from origin” is a danger in this regard. Once you open a bottle, the exposure to air accelerates oxidation. The rule of thumb is simple: sealed products last about 12 months, while actively used products should be replaced after 6 months. When oils degrade, they lose their bioavailable fatty acids and triglycerides. These are the key components your hair and skin take from oils for nourishment and protection. This significantly reduces absorption efficiency, which is what makes a good beard oil so effective. Using a rancid product doesn’t just fail to deliver benefits; it actively causes harm by introducing free radicals.

In herbalism, we learn to emphasize buying only what we need when we need it. This allows us to ensure that we’re offering our customers fresh product, and that we don’t create tons of waste through unsustainable purchasing. For the consumers, we don’t suggest stockpiling products, even during sales events, as it’s a gamble unless you know exactly when and how the oils were pressed and bottled. Many companies don’t provide this information, leaving you to guess. This is why we stress the importance of keeping your products fresh. Your beard deserves the full benefit of high-quality, nutrient-rich oils with a full content of bioavailable fatty acids. Beard grooming products are often one of the most misunderstood areas in personal care, and much of the confusion comes from misinformation spread by companies eager to maximize sales. This is wildly exploitive and an insult to consumers. We owe it to our consumers to confront this practice industry-wide.

Here’s what we suggest:

  • Store your products in a cool, dark place to slow oxidation. Bathroom cabinet is usually just fine.
  • Look for brands that tell you the real shelf-life. 1 year or less. Anything more is their attempt to mislead you.
  • Avoid buying more than a 6-month supply of any oil-based product. This ensures that you always have fresh product on hand.
  • Always replace your products if you notice a change in smell, texture, or effectiveness. Rancid oils smell very strong. This can be masked by fragrance oils, so use time as your first indicator.

The science is clear. Rancid oils aren’t just ineffective, they’re also harmful. A well-formulated, fresh beard oil is a game changer, and understanding its shelf life ensures you’re getting the maximum benefit for your beard and skin. And hey, if you ever have questions about your products or need advice, feel free to DM us. We’re here to help!

**A note on Vitamin E oil: There’s a persistent myth that adding vitamin E oil (Tocopheryl acetate) to beard products extends their shelf life indefinitely. While it’s true that antioxidant-rich oils like grapeseed and vitamin E can slow oxidation, they can only do so for a limited time. This doesn’t mean they “preserve” a product but rather delay the inevitable by a few months. This can be helpful for oils with a short shelf life, but the issue is that even vitamin E oil goes rancid after 11 months! So, add a little vitamin E to an oil that goes rancid in 12 months, and you might get 12.5-13 months. That’s the science. Oxidation is inevitable.**

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